Jerry Oleson
Well-known member
Optima yellow top, never charged it the entire week of the runoffs, (but did think about it)
Spridget Gear reduction starter.
- Thread starter Gary Wittman
- Start date
Dayle Frame
Well-known member
+1 for the optima yellow top. I've been using one for years and it's a workhorse. The price is right for peace of mind.
Dayle
Dayle
Gary Wittman
Well-known member
Both batteries were old and I typically do not have to charge batteries on a race weekend. I use one for starting and powering in the paddock and the other for on track. My fault for not recognizing they were getting old and weak. All batteries have a limited time before they loose the duration of charge.
The yellow top is a good choice since it is a deep cycle battery.
The yellow top is a good choice since it is a deep cycle battery.
I'd be cautious on the Optimas. They ain't what they used to be. Johnson Controls bought the company in 2000 and moved manufacturing to Mexico from Denver a few years ago. Quality, as a result, has gone downhill.
I've got a couple of 10+ year old red tops that were made in the US that are still going strong in a couple of my classic cars.
The Hecho in Mexico one that was in my race car didn't last but a couple of years. That's the one I replaced with a Miata battery.
You can Google it and find lots of dissatisfied customers on various forums.
YM, of course, MV.
I've got a couple of 10+ year old red tops that were made in the US that are still going strong in a couple of my classic cars.
The Hecho in Mexico one that was in my race car didn't last but a couple of years. That's the one I replaced with a Miata battery.
You can Google it and find lots of dissatisfied customers on various forums.
YM, of course, MV.
Matt Blehm
Moderator
I'll second that opinion that quality has gone down in the last few years. I knew they changed manufacturing plants/process, but didn't know the details. last couple batteries I've bought from them didn't last but a couple years while I still have a yellow top from about 2001 or so in another car that works fine.
We've got 4 GR starters for our 948/1275 engines, all on different adaptors. Our solution to housing cracks and vibration was to drill and tap to get 4 mounting bolts into the adaptors and housings. On 2 of them we went with one size larger long bolts into threaded adaptors, the other two we added two more bolts to the existing mounting bolts. No problems with any of them. Did make sure the electronics were sealed with RTV as the units sit upright and there are a couple of holes on top of the motor case. We also put a spring loaded plunger in the end cap of the solenoid to release it when it sticks. We service the starters at engine rebuilds but have had at least two stick on us over the past 10 years. It's a handy modification.
Bob
Bob
David.... Finding areas to add bolts was a challenge. On the two starters with no way to use the long bolts holding the motor together we used allen bolts with course threads just around the circumference and close to the two bolts usually provided. There isn't much room to work but the space is there. Don't have any pictures of those particular mods but the attitude I used was if there was room for a 5/16 or 1/4 inch bolt it was going in. Just having the four bolts, regardless of how close they were together, stopped the vibration that was breaking everything apart or affecting the wiring. Don't know who designs these things but they really don't understand anything about engines. If this doesn't help call me and I'll try to get some pics of the one starter that isn't in a car. 305-872-0430. If that number doesn't work the first time try again.
Bob
Bob
Rob":1t1ky3ou said:
Becoming a long thread, but if you don't have an adaptor plate you can buy a #16878 at Autozone and others (fitment for an Isuzu Trooper). It will bolt in place without an adaptor plate, BUT you will have to take a sledgehammer to your firewall to give it some clearance (engine probably has to be out to get swinging space) and the battery connection will be somewhat inconvenient on the underside. Still, a lot less expensive that buying the starters with the adaptor plates and pretty easy to find. The NAPA part number we are discussing is to provide a replacement rebuilt for those of us that already have a starter with adaptor plate.
Someone mentioned taking a big hammer and beating the inner wall to allow for starter fit. Anyone find a place where this is allowed? I have not read through the PCS specifically looking for this but I don't recall be allowed to rearrange the unibody for a starter to fit.
Erickz":39xmy9zj said:
I don't have a tested NAPA p/n, maybe someone else does. You can go here http://catalog.remyinc.com/Product/Details/16878 and scroll down to find the vehicles that the 16878 starter fits. I usually ask for a 1988 Isuzu Trooper starter. The 16878 number is good at Autozone and Advance Auto and maybe others.
Okay, going back to NAPA to do an exchange. The pn 17155 crosses to NAPA numbers 2446380, 2446222 and 2446116. The 2446116 is the one that is readily available. The others are some sort of special order part.
I am using the Isuzu trooper starter 16878 on my vintage racer and yes some modification was required. My concern is that this modification using the BFH precision tool will be illegal under the SCCA GCR.
Thoughts? Comments?
I am using the Isuzu trooper starter 16878 on my vintage racer and yes some modification was required. My concern is that this modification using the BFH precision tool will be illegal under the SCCA GCR.
Thoughts? Comments?