Wanted: Electromotive HPV-1 brain box
- Thread starter CFreeborn
- Start date
Welcome, Charles!
Any thoughts to maybe converting to a current system? With some minor rewiring all the other components should be usable. Here's a blog where I converted my 914's D-Jet to Microsquirt:
tgadrivel.blogspot.com
Any thoughts to maybe converting to a current system? With some minor rewiring all the other components should be usable. Here's a blog where I converted my 914's D-Jet to Microsquirt:
On "Microsquirting" the Porsche 914
Bosch D-Jetronic The Bosch D-Jetronic system is pretty cool, especially when you consider it was designed in the 1960s. "Computer"-contro...
tgadrivel.blogspot.com
Many thanks for the ideas. Car is carbeurated and likely to stay that way for now. At this point I'm not finding any of the HPV-1's available, and if I did it would be as old as mine and with Electromotive out of business, also unserviceable.
Other options are to source an Electomotive TEC series unit (available on eBay used), but who knows history of them. I could convert to one of the programable 123 distributors, or go with a new electronic (still crank fired) system from Performance Electronics (Clewitt sells them) which can. There are pros and cons to all of the choices. The 123 is more "vintage looking" which one of our local sanctioning bodies (SOVREN) likes to see, and is bluetooth programable from a phone, which is definitely convenient, but I'd have to source a distributor drive (not hard) and move some of my oil sending plumbing around. The PE3 is simpler (no cap/rotor), more accurate and and can re-use the crank trigger. It does require programing from a laptop with software. Those 2 systems are about the same cost ($1k +-). The full MSD system with "flying magnets" is around $1500 and would mean re-making the trigger wheel, mount, etc.
So, yeah, some things to ponder. If the search for a working HPV-1 doesn't yield anything I'll toss a coin and see where it lands.
Thanks!
Other options are to source an Electomotive TEC series unit (available on eBay used), but who knows history of them. I could convert to one of the programable 123 distributors, or go with a new electronic (still crank fired) system from Performance Electronics (Clewitt sells them) which can. There are pros and cons to all of the choices. The 123 is more "vintage looking" which one of our local sanctioning bodies (SOVREN) likes to see, and is bluetooth programable from a phone, which is definitely convenient, but I'd have to source a distributor drive (not hard) and move some of my oil sending plumbing around. The PE3 is simpler (no cap/rotor), more accurate and and can re-use the crank trigger. It does require programing from a laptop with software. Those 2 systems are about the same cost ($1k +-). The full MSD system with "flying magnets" is around $1500 and would mean re-making the trigger wheel, mount, etc.
So, yeah, some things to ponder. If the search for a working HPV-1 doesn't yield anything I'll toss a coin and see where it lands.
Thanks!
Thanks Charles. I was not aware this was only controlling ignition.
I have heard good things about the 1-2-3 disty on our 914s from people that knew what they were doing. I know a lot of folks can be frustrated by it if they don't understand it.
On my historics 2L (nee ITA/FP) car I'm still running a Mallory disty (hard to find, but caps and rotors are still available). Its downside is that it's not programmable and you have to re-spring it if you want a different advance curve; its upside is that it's not required to be programmed.
If I were to consider going with an ECU-controlled electronic ignition I'd go with a Microsquirt system and DubShop's "Cam Sync v2". This way everything is accessible and no more worries about having to get to the crank sensor (and worries that the fan hub may move, as mine did a couple summers ago).
thedubshop.com
I agree it would be easier just to find another replacement box, but as you noted you'll eventually be back in the same place.
BTW, if you need a disty drive and washer, I have one hanging about somewhere. No spring though.
I have heard good things about the 1-2-3 disty on our 914s from people that knew what they were doing. I know a lot of folks can be frustrated by it if they don't understand it.
On my historics 2L (nee ITA/FP) car I'm still running a Mallory disty (hard to find, but caps and rotors are still available). Its downside is that it's not programmable and you have to re-spring it if you want a different advance curve; its upside is that it's not required to be programmed.
If I were to consider going with an ECU-controlled electronic ignition I'd go with a Microsquirt system and DubShop's "Cam Sync v2". This way everything is accessible and no more worries about having to get to the crank sensor (and worries that the fan hub may move, as mine did a couple summers ago).
Mini Cam Sync V2
The Dub Shop is dedicated to tailoring the best fuel injection and ignition packages for air cooled Volkswagen's built for the street, offroad or racing. Whether you have a Type 1 Beetle, Type 4 Bus, Type 3 Squareback, 914 or a Thing get your kit today. I continue to develop parts that will help...
thedubshop.com
I agree it would be easier just to find another replacement box, but as you noted you'll eventually be back in the same place.
BTW, if you need a disty drive and washer, I have one hanging about somewhere. No spring though.
Many thanks Greg. I'll keep you posted on what I land on. Still on the fence.Thanks Charles. I was not aware this was only controlling ignition.
I have heard good things about the 1-2-3 disty on our 914s from people that knew what they were doing. I know a lot of folks can be frustrated by it if they don't understand it.
On my historics 2L (nee ITA/FP) car I'm still running a Mallory disty (hard to find, but caps and rotors are still available). Its downside is that it's not programmable and you have to re-spring it if you want a different advance curve; its upside is that it's not required to be programmed.
If I were to consider going with an ECU-controlled electronic ignition I'd go with a Microsquirt system and DubShop's "Cam Sync v2". This way everything is accessible and no more worries about having to get to the crank sensor (and worries that the fan hub may move, as mine did a couple summers ago).
Mini Cam Sync V2
The Dub Shop is dedicated to tailoring the best fuel injection and ignition packages for air cooled Volkswagen's built for the street, offroad or racing. Whether you have a Type 1 Beetle, Type 4 Bus, Type 3 Squareback, 914 or a Thing get your kit today. I continue to develop parts that will help...
I agree it would be easier just to find another replacement box, but as you noted you'll eventually be back in the same place.
BTW, if you need a disty drive and washer, I have one hanging about somewhere. No spring though.
Protech Racing
Well-known member
Ive changed a couple Electromotive to Micro. In order to use the tiny tooth electro wheel, you need the tiny crank sensor . They are a constant failure point and the main reason for the change over to the Microsquirt system .
I have used the Ford 36 /1 wheel with a 20$ Nissan VR trigger with zero failures .
I have used the Ford 36 /1 wheel with a 20$ Nissan VR trigger with zero failures .
I'm late to this discussion; I have an HPV-1 complete system removed from my Caterham S7 (crossflow Ford 1700)) for the cost of shipping, plus, after looking it over, paying whatever you think it is worth. If that turns out to be zero, then cost to you is freight plus zero.
I'm in southeastern PA, 17543
steve
717 554 8808
Hi Steve,
That would be great. I scrounged a distributor and coil but it's giving me trouble too. Let's chat offline about getting yours to me.
Many thanks,
-C