In a moment of insanity thanks in large part to Dayle Frame's rebuild of his Team Turtle car, I have decided to embarke on a rebuild of my vintage racer aka Midge 2.0. Here is the immediate question: what do I paint/prime the tub with (nice rust free tub from Texas, RWA MG Midget) when it comes back from the sandblaster (this sandblaster comes highly recommended)? Should I use POR 15? I do not own a paint booth and I want to keep the dreaded tin worm at bay. Please be specific with your suggestions. Thanks!
post sand blast
- Thread starter Erickz
- Start date
Dayle Frame
Well-known member
The place that blasted my car primered it for me. So I drove it home primered and could work on it that way. It took a year or more to fabricate and mount all the crap (fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, etc.). Once I had it all set, I removed it all, got it blasted again and then had it powder coated and painted. Once that was done, I could remount all the systems and off I went.
sand blasting
primer coat
engineer everything
remove everything
sand blast again
powder coat
paint/body work
install everything again
go racing....
I'm going to be in Cbus for the GLDiv RT meeting in November (11/3). I'd be glad to stop by for a chat.
Dayle
sand blasting
primer coat
engineer everything
remove everything
sand blast again
powder coat
paint/body work
install everything again
go racing....
I'm going to be in Cbus for the GLDiv RT meeting in November (11/3). I'd be glad to stop by for a chat.
Dayle
Rick Starkweather
Well-known member
PPG has a two-part etching process that I used on my MGB. I can find the specific PPG reference for you when I am back home this weekend. Recommendation came from Eclectic Motorworks who sandblasted a Midget tub as a Classic Motorsports magazine project several years ago.
I trailered my sandblasted tub home in bare metal (thankfully no rain that day), etched the tub and it has stood the test of time ever since... it's been over eight years now I think!
External surface of car will FINALLY be primed and painted in the next couple of weeks!
Rick
I trailered my sandblasted tub home in bare metal (thankfully no rain that day), etched the tub and it has stood the test of time ever since... it's been over eight years now I think!
External surface of car will FINALLY be primed and painted in the next couple of weeks!
Rick
Tom Broring
Well-known member
I wouldn't use POR on the bare metal. That is really just for rusty metal that cannot be or will not be cleaned of all the rust. POR is difficult to get paint to stick to, although I heard they are releasing a paintable version.
Auto body shop supply shops sell spray cans of self-etching primer, which is good for bare metal. Do not use hardware store primer if you are using good auto paint for the parts. It should be applied as soon as possible after blasting and wiping clean the metal with a solvent cleaner (no water). If the air is very humid, it is best to prime immediately, but with the dry air we have this time of year, you have a little time. Primer is not a good long-term protectant. It also can hold moisture and allow rust if the air is humid, it gets wet, or it sits long enough (months), so plan to apply the long-term finish in a reasonable time frame.
Auto body shop supply shops sell spray cans of self-etching primer, which is good for bare metal. Do not use hardware store primer if you are using good auto paint for the parts. It should be applied as soon as possible after blasting and wiping clean the metal with a solvent cleaner (no water). If the air is very humid, it is best to prime immediately, but with the dry air we have this time of year, you have a little time. Primer is not a good long-term protectant. It also can hold moisture and allow rust if the air is humid, it gets wet, or it sits long enough (months), so plan to apply the long-term finish in a reasonable time frame.
To expand on what Tom wrote: Use an etching primer. NAPA sells it in spray cans or in quarts for use with regular spray equipment. All the major paint companies will have a similar product. Make sure to solvent clean the bare metal before you spray. The oil from your skin/hands will affect adhesion if not cleaned off. I have seen hand prints magically appear because someone leaned their hand on a panel prior to painting. Do not let the unpainted/primed vehicle sit for a long time prior to painting. Etching primer is a good shop coat, but will absorb moisture. Just as a side note: Chrysler considered the application of etching primer as the equivalent of the factory rustproofing.
engineerted
Member
No need for an Etching primer if you are sandblasting the tub. Go directly to an epoxy primer, it seals off the metal plus it sands easy and you can shoot any type of paint over it. PPGs shop line epoxy primer is economical and sprays very good, plus you can get it in black, white or gray.
Ted
Ted
I've used Ditzler DP40 for over 20 yrs with good results.
However, with powder coaters showing up...makes pretty good sense to just do cage, major prep/bodywork, then blast and powder coat the complete tub. That stuff is tough.
I know Clancy has been doing this on several recent projects. Scott's Midget was done that way. I just did a Westfield 11 chassis (which is very tricky to blast/cover due to all the little tubes). The blasting/use of both grey and black on various parts, cost be just over 800....local blaster (getting harder to find these guys) wanted about 400 for just blasting...
One other comment...years ago I did the dip/strip/passivate route with a Bugeye...wouldn't do it again...took all the mill finish/coating off the backside of panels...car was continually getting rusty streaks out seams... Would be ok if you could get to all sides to finish later...
If you are going to CVAR at Hallet in next 2 wks, check out the F car, ask Clancy about his experience.
Okie/Bob L.
However, with powder coaters showing up...makes pretty good sense to just do cage, major prep/bodywork, then blast and powder coat the complete tub. That stuff is tough.
I know Clancy has been doing this on several recent projects. Scott's Midget was done that way. I just did a Westfield 11 chassis (which is very tricky to blast/cover due to all the little tubes). The blasting/use of both grey and black on various parts, cost be just over 800....local blaster (getting harder to find these guys) wanted about 400 for just blasting...
One other comment...years ago I did the dip/strip/passivate route with a Bugeye...wouldn't do it again...took all the mill finish/coating off the backside of panels...car was continually getting rusty streaks out seams... Would be ok if you could get to all sides to finish later...
If you are going to CVAR at Hallet in next 2 wks, check out the F car, ask Clancy about his experience.
Okie/Bob L.
Thank you all for your input. Dayle - that is spouse's birthday and mine is no where near as understanding as yours!
Need to strip the undercoating off of the bottom of the car then off to the sand blaster. Any suggestions on removing old undercoating besides a heat gun??
Need to strip the undercoating off of the bottom of the car then off to the sand blaster. Any suggestions on removing old undercoating besides a heat gun??
Matt Blehm
Moderator
I bet a sandblaster would make quick work of it....
are you talking the rubber undercoating on the bottom of the floorpans, or the mastic/asphalt stuff on the inside of the car?
For the mastic stuff, dry ice works wonders. for the spray-on undercoating, a wire wheel or sandblaster would take care of it. for the small jobs to clear off spots for welding repairs and such, I just use a wire wheel on the grinder and then follow up with a solvent cleaner.
are you talking the rubber undercoating on the bottom of the floorpans, or the mastic/asphalt stuff on the inside of the car?
For the mastic stuff, dry ice works wonders. for the spray-on undercoating, a wire wheel or sandblaster would take care of it. for the small jobs to clear off spots for welding repairs and such, I just use a wire wheel on the grinder and then follow up with a solvent cleaner.