Alternator single wire mini

TED HEINRITZ

Well-known member
I bought one of those mini single wire alternators, after mounting it up, had to make new mounts, I might have run the motor without the charge wire connected. Of course then it didn't work. I then replaced the voltage regulator, now it still doesn't work. So I ordered another alternator...

Anybody know more about these? Is there a simple way to prevent damage if the charge wire is disconnected? What actually gets damaged?
 
Ted, I believe the single wire has the regulator in it. Are you trying to use an external regulator also?
 
Correct the voltage regulator is on the back of the alternator under a cover. I was able to buy the regulator separately and replaced it, but that didn't seem to fix it. Of course there is always a chance I ruined it when I took it apart, like that never happened....

I thought I could maybe just carry a spare voltage regulator to fix it when needed, but that might not be the case. How hard can it be to make a alternator work, this should be easy.

I did order another complete alternator, with the small battery I use, need the alternator to actually work. It also helps to provide a way to adjust the water pump belt.
 
Ted -

A few things -

A "normal" alternator relies on an external source for "excitation" voltage, which is the "second wire". A single wire alternator draws its excitation voltage internally, thus only requires the one main connector wire, thus "single wire". Some single wire units on the market are conversions, they just add a jumper to the voltage regulator. (You probably already know all this)

I and some friends have bought several inexpensive aftermarket "mini Denso single wire" alternators. They've been cheap Chinese copies of a Denso alternator, modified by the reseller to be "single wire". Our luck with these has been terrible, I've had them last less than one race weekend before. The problem seems to be vibration, I've run underdrive pulleys so the actual RPM is not severe. The failure mode n mine has been the stator windings actually vibrating loose and moving inside the case, severing the wiring. Last go around I had a local electric rebuilder take the unit apart from new and "pot" the stator much better. It's held up for 4 race weekends now so fingers crossed.

(I only persisted with the Chinese junk because the vendor replaced it several times for free, then I gave up and bought a supposedly better brand that turned out to be exactly the same thing. That's the one I had beefed up when new)

Next time I need one I'll probably just pay Powermaster twice as much for one that will actually work. I talked to them at PRI, they source the bits in China too but build and QC them here.

Sorry if none of this is relevant, my point only being that if you've run it at all it may simply have fallen apart inside. I would not expect a brief run w/o charging connection to hurt anything to be honest, and if it did I'd expect the regulator to fix it. (Unless maybe when replacing the regulator you converted it back to a std "two wire"??)

All to be taken with a grain of salt as I'm an ME. 8)
 
it's fairly common to blow both/either the rectifier and the voltage regulator when you freewheel an alternator.. does this unit have a separate rectifier as well as voltage regulator? some do, some don't.
 
Most of them still have the multiple wire connector for the harness plug at the back, so it looks like some sort of conversion. Or they have a plug covering that.

Not sure why the one I have doesn't work.

There seems to be two different price ranges, about $75 and about $125, wonder if there is a difference?

Maybe I should just get a bigger battery and charge it between races...
 
I use a 1st gen RX7 alternator. It's self exciting at about 2500 rpm. Just run the one hot wire.
 
Ok but how small is it? What model car and year range would we look for?

The alternator gets in the way of the lower radiator hose, and this mini type fits a little better than what I had been using.
 
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