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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 6:27 am 
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I fought major braking problems for three years in my car - that lever was about the only thing I could count on to get some semblance of balance.

It was never about finding the perfect balance, more like, bearable brakes.

Problem solved now, or so I hope. https://brakeometer.com/


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:35 am 
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Biggest issue I found was at times a click was to much change

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:41 am 
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kruck wrote:
Greg Amy wrote:
Matt93SE wrote:
I'm not that good of a driver. might change mine once or twice during a weekend to try to find the happy place during practice/qual, and then I leave it alone and drive.

Once or twice per weekend? I think I may change mine once or twice per season...then again I think I change mine whenever I bump it getting into the car...

:lol:

Seriously. I move mine when I'm bleeding the brakes, and if it's some level of wet on the track. That's about it.

I've also been using the same Tilton lever-style valve for like 10 years, and it still works just fine.

What help is it when bleeding brakes? :think:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:06 pm 
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kruck wrote:
Greg Amy wrote:
Matt93SE wrote:
I'm not that good of a driver. might change mine once or twice during a weekend to try to find the happy place during practice/qual, and then I leave it alone and drive.

Once or twice per weekend? I think I may change mine once or twice per season...then again I think I change mine whenever I bump it getting into the car...

:lol:

Seriously. I move mine when I'm bleeding the brakes, and if it's some level of wet on the track. That's about it.

I've also been using the same Tilton lever-style valve for like 10 years, and it still works just fine.


Mine got sticky at around 10 years.. It wasn't very obvious, just kept enough residual pressure in the rear to drag brakes slightly and wear lining out fast. The lever felt OK IIRC, I think it still was working as a prop valve, it was just not letting reverse flow through at lowish pressure thus brakes were not fully releasing. I only noticed it because I was bleeding the brakes while on jackstands, and the wheel was hard to turn by hand for quite a while after pressing the brake pedal and releasing. Rebuilding (ie cleaning, and replacing the seal, and I doubt anything was wrong with the seal) the valve fixed it.

YMMV


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:13 pm 
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Location: Spring Hill, FL.
For bleeding. If you have all of the pressure off of the rear you will get a softer pedal due to the chamber/spring /piston moving further.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:13 am 
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You'll also flush the fluid out a lot faster when you open up the rear bias (i.e. restrictor).

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2020 7:25 am 
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Ahh Ok. I didn't think it would be a big deal since the bleeder open makes line pressure roughly 0psi. and a 40% reduction in 0psi is still 0psi. :)

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