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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:15 pm
Posts: 120
I'm looking for some guidance on how to swap out the rear oil seal on my gearbox. Is it pressed on?...does it need a gear puller to get off? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Craig


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 5:51 pm
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Craig,

I filed thru, or hack sawed thru, the crimps in the retaining groove. (usually 3 crimps)

I used a cold chisel to get a bite in the seal on 3 sides and striking alternatively, drove it off evenly.

Important that you inspect the bushing in the rear of the tailhousing. When worn, these allow the driveshaft yoke to beat up the seal. Need to remove the tailhousing to do properly, as the tailshaft splines will support the yoke, giving false sense of bushing fit. New bushing requires special driver to remove/install, and reaming to size after installation. Before installing the seal, check final fit of yoke in bushing over splines. Sometimes, a nice fitting yoke/bushing will feel snug with the splines engaged.

Time consuming but necessary.

Have a good season.

RJS


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 4:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:33 am
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Location: Titusville, Fl.
Pretty much what R.J. says getting it off, I used s thin cut off wheel to slit it just barely through.
Once installed with some RTV speared on the inside, you can steak the edges in the grove on the tail shaft
with a small chisel.
I installed the tail shaft loosely on the back of the trans then slid in a yoke. You can attempt to center it up by feel before tightening
it down. Installing a new bushing is another issue. Time consuming if you do it the way I did reaming & honing.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 11:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:10 pm
Posts: 58
My dogring box has a normal seal not the original BMC set up. If yours is the original set up the above is correct. By the way RJ were you at the reunion in your car?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 3:54 am
Posts: 143
Craig:

I'm pretty sure I machined a driver to remove/install the rear bushing.

I am out of town this week but will check when I get home and post a picture on this thread.

I will ship it to you if you promise to return it.

John


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 5:51 pm
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Jerry,

Sold car to young lady who raced VSCDA: and she drove at the reunion. I was there as support if needed, and to sell parts.

Got a garage full of 948 stuff.

Sold another Bug-Eye, and sadly, there still isn't room in the garage.

RJS


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:10 pm
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Thought the picture I saw was your car. How is it to see someone else running it?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:29 pm 
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Jerry,

Nostalgic.

RJS


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:15 pm
Posts: 120
Thank you all for the helpful advice and information. I used a small hacksaw to cut a couple of grooves in the seal, just big enough to get a chisel blade to grab, and tapped alternately to get it to slide off. Thankfully, the rear bushing was fine and didn't need to be replaced. RTV'd the inside of the new seal, and tapped it back on using a socket that was the same diameter. Checked the fit with a drive shaft yoke and it's good to go. Hopefully, it will all go back into the car tomorrow. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:17 am
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Location: Innsbrook, MO
Jerry,

I was at the reunion and did a few laps in Clancy Schmidts brand new 1275 midget...…...we finished it in the paddock on Thursday afternoon with 20 hours to spare!

Jay

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