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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 10:59 pm 
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THis weekend I really was cooking the oil in my 2nd gen RX7.

We reworked the cooling setup after destroying the spliiter for the 3rd time which had decect ducting to the stock oil cooler. Before the water was going to 220 or so and the oil would be 235-240 and that is with low 80's ambient. So we put in a large racing radiator that came with the car and redid the ducting to the radiator. And now the water is around 200 but the oil actually hit 300 :-[... Saturday. last time out it was 250 or so when it was 50 ambient. Not good. And that is with the stock oil cooler only.

With the 12A 1st Gen I run 190 water and the oil is 215-220 when its 90 out. So that seems perfect.

But I know the 2nd Gen has stock housings without the water jacket mod to help. Not sure what kind of difference that would make.

For it to last I need to cool it better. Some more work on the ducting to seal it off would help. Its decent but the sides could use a bit more work. But I need more oil cooling. So maybe try to plumb in a second oil cooler? I know some guys do that. Or would it be worth it do a water to oil cooler setup? Seems like I can barely keep the water where I want it. How much more heat would that add to the water cooling setup. I can't see using a larger radiator as it is super close to the max size I can fit in the space as is. Its a Griffin radiator. And I run 90% Distilled water with 10% Coolant and Johnsens water pump lubricant.

Thanks :)

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Rob Garrison

FP Mazda Miata
IT7 RX7
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:24 am 
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Rob, we moved from a stock-style cooler to a Setrab, which made a big difference. We also run water wetter and a fan (for low speed help). The most important thing though is flow through your coolers . Anything you can do to increase ducting in and out and free up space behind the cooler is critical.

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Sterling Cole
#47 EP Mazda RX3
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 3:43 am 
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Run a pair of stock coolers in parallel or thicker aftermarket. You will never run the car safely with one stock size cooler. We run 200 water and 200 oil on about any ambient temp day.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:43 am 
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Location: SE NM
I run an EP FC and had the same struggle for a long while. In the end, I ended up getting to 190f water and 220f max (~200f nominal) @ 90f ambients at an elevation of 6000ft using the AWR/Ron Davis dual-pass 'EP' radiator and two stock coolers in parallel. This is with Mobil One 15W-50 oil.

I had an iterative process for getting my temps down, initially I had two oil coolers in parallel just sort of hanging out in front of the radiator and I saw virtually no difference. The big reduction in temps came from ducting. Below are a few photos. The original idea came from looking at Dave Lemon's EP FC convertible.


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A. Sanford
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 10:38 am 
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Now if you were just allowed to duct an opening through the hood at the trailing edge of the radiator you'd be high-stylin'

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:03 pm 
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Rob wrote:
Now if you were just allowed to duct an opening through the hood at the trailing edge of the radiator you'd be high-stylin'

No way you could do that in Prod.. those dang fender flares and air dams already make these cars too far from 'Production' !!!!! :boohoo:

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Matt Blehm
Houston Region
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:55 pm 
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Thanks for the ideas.

And thanks asanford for posting the pictures. I saw a lot of your posts and pictures on another site and was thinking about the same sort of setup :D

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Rob Garrison

FP Mazda Miata
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