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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2002 3:17 pm
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Location: Snohomish, WA
Another tip that worked for me - Add a jam nut on the wheel stud that clamps the axle & hub together. You have to machine the wheel spacer to clearance around the jam nut but it works well.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:47 am 
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Location: Innsbrook, MO
I did the sealed XLS bearing that Ron discusses........and it is definitely worth doing. Improves the situation noticeably. J

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 9:55 am 
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Jay:

Do you remember the part number for the sealed XLS bearing and where you got them?

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John


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:48 pm 
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Location: Central Florida
The inner bearing on the hubs I used- "1 3/4 XLS" is the part number. I was able to buy them from Miller Bearing, which is a pretty big bearing chain. Other suppliers may be able to get them, too. Joel

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:21 pm 
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Someone like Jay who has actually done this can correct me but here is what I know: The 1 3/4 XLS is a special inch-size bearing and is somewhat difficult to find and expensive. In that I mean that you will rarely find it on the shelf at a local bearing supply house. Mine started charging shipping for these special orders.

Because it is somewhat rare, you don't have many choices in terms of shields and seals for the 1 3/4 XLS bearing. My experience is they are usually open bearings. The good news is that you have a separate seal on the inner part of the double bearing hub. And the inner standard Conrad bearing is relatively common and you can get it in many different configurations.

So, my advice if I was to try this: Use the standard seal on the inner part of the hub and pack the XLS with grease. Buy the outer bearing with seals and remove the seal on one side and keep one seal on the inner side. The oil will travel out the axel housing, come to the flange on the end of the axel and lube the outer bearing, and will be stopped by its inboard seal. In order to leak oil would have to get past this seal, then get through the grease and get past the inner seal.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:40 am 
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My solution was somewhat different as I attempted to keep 100% of the oil out of the hubs.

First I fabricated inner oil baffles very close to the pumpkin that I riveted (aluminum in case they came loose) in place. I machined a very precise hub replacement fixture (no bearings) that bolted on with the big nut. This held a laser pointer on dead center which projected the laser to the opposite side baffle (no axle hole yet). Clecoed in a baffle with no big hole yet. I marked the laser dot, removed the cleco fasteners, disassembled and hole sawed a tight fit hole for the axle. (snaking the axles in place after a diff change was challenging henceforth!) I also drilled a small 1/8" drain hole at the bottom of the baffle for axle tube to pumpkin drain back as some oil was sure to get by the baffle. This kept MOST of the oil near the pumpkin . I experimented with various ID seals under the big nut threads but none proved viable.

Outboard I used the double seal outer bearing, removed both seals, packed bearing with high temp synthetic Swepco grease and reassembled seals. Packed the XLS inner bearing with the same grease and reassembled using the double bearing hub oil seal. I also used speedysleeves as needed for the icing on the cake or if a little extra robustness was needed.

Worked reasonably well but about then rear discs became legal and the point was moot.

Cheers! G-daddy

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