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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 4:36 am 
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Location: Topeka, Kansas
I was also going to say get them shaved or else it will be like being on a rain tire out there. Ask my how I know.

Good tire though.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 9:42 am 
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thanks for the input guys. Rob, my main concern is the power and tire capability as well. I can burn up a set of S80s in a single race, and I have a feeling a 2100lb car with ~200whp will also burn off these guys in short order. If I go R888R, I'll consider shaving them as well. (where can I get shaving done? Ive never bought shaved tires)

Is there another tire you recommend that would have wider tread rubber and last longer? I certainly see driving to conserve tires being needed for any of them due to the limited grip, but hoping I can minimize the pain. then again, sliding around sideways on old bias tires looks like a helluva lot of fun. just wonder how long they last while you're doing that, and if I have the skills to keep the front wheels in front for an entire race! ;)

hpmowog, I have no clue what class I'd run.. some places consider the rotary a 4 cyl, some a 6 cyl, some do it by displacement so they'd consider a 13B as a 2.6L.. which is of course right on the line between 4 and 6 cyl displacements.. I'm going to get some seat time and have fun, so don't really care what class they stick me in. But I have classing as an action item to discuss with Russ when I get a chance to get away from work.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 10:30 am 
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Matt93SE wrote:
Jason@SportsCar wrote:
225-45-15 R888R is 23" dia, 245-580-15 is 22.8", not a big change.

Did you look at the specs for the 225-50-15 R888R or RA1 (which is 23.9") by mistake?


toyo's website didn't have an overall diameter, just revs/mile. I backtracked that to a 23.3" diameter, just a touch larger than the Hoosier. I'm not worried about the gearing change, moreso the potential tire rub I ran into with the last set of tires I tried, wound up being a $1000 mistake. (I think they were indeed 225/50/15)

Tim,
the group doesn't have a specific tire rule- simply 'call the group representative and ask them'. my recollection of the conversation was "it needs to have tread" and "we know it when we see it"

so unfortunately I'm going on intent and innuendo regarding an exact tire spec.

I figure the R888R is an easy try, and they're not THAT expensive. they'll last multiple events and if they really suck, there's always a Miata locally needing cheap tires.


Tire Rack has all of the specs for the R888R listed.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2019 11:49 pm 
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On the Toyo Availability can be hit or miss. I have purchased them from the Tire Rack and from Appalachian Race Tire. I think most all of the race tire places will shave them. Its about $20-25 per tire. But for sure they will never shave them if the stickers are gone as any grit will dull the machine. Some people mount an unshaved set for rains or intermediates.

They have an outside and an inside but you can run them either way. AT first Appalachian was mounting them with the same pattern on both sides so that the big block side was on the outside on the LH and the inside on the RH. THen the last set they changed it and said they were told to mount the side marked outside outside. So I have run them both ways and they work fine either way. I normally buy 5 just because I don't want to cut one or have a problem and be looking for another one.

The Bias Hoosier TD is fun. I raced them for years in the late 90's until 2003 or so. You get used to them fast. They are easier to drive at the limit with tons of feedback. Its easy enough to change the alignment but they will be happy with softer springs. Since they do not need much camber they work well in the back of solid axle cars.

Have Fun

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 5:38 am 
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Matt, what org(s) are you running with? They all have different rulez...

I'm running Nitto NT-01 on the 914, 205/50-15. Nice fun tires, I'm told they're a derivation of the old RA-1. 100TW, grippy, and wear like iron; I did 4 weekends on them in 2018 (two historics, two Regionals) and I have not even yet rotated them around the car. Discount Tire shows a 225/45-15 for $168 shipped.

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy- ... 01/p/40391


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 8:14 am 
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thanks gents.
Greg, I'll be running with CVAR to start. SVRA comes to the area as well, but CVAR is the start. I think they only require a "treaded tire", and the guy organizing it runs R888R on his car, so I figure I can't lose if I go that way.
I'm a little concerned that the 225 width and 200whp will overcook the tires, but I'll give them a shot and see what happens.

I've used Nitto NT01 in the past and agree it's quite similar to the RA1/ R888 in construction and tread life. I think the larger tread blocks make it a little better when abused due to lower tread squirm and rolling the edges over than the RA1 or R888.

Since the car is currently set up for Hoosier Radials (fair amount of front camber), I figure that's less of a setup change than to run the hoosier vintage bias stuff. also considerably less cost and likely longer life. given I'm just out to have fun and dip my toes into CVAR, I'll try these and see what happens. hell, maybe I'll be faster on them on the second heat cycle than I am on a set of overcooked S80s! :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:24 am 
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Another vote for the Nitto NT-1s. We run them on our vintage MGB. Not sure about size availability though (we run 14 inch wheels).

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:34 pm 
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Location: Florida
Little late getting on this but we ran the Hoosier TDs on an ITC Datsun 1600 in the late 90s and into the 2000s. Great traction and wear capabilities, won a bunch of endurance races on those tires. Got 6 new ones in a stack waiting to put on our Vintage Bugeye.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:37 am 
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Location: Ozark Mountain Region
Send me a message at Cwood13@aol.com or call me at 417-849-4673 and I will put you in direct contact with the Group 8 leader who is very helpful and can answer your questions. DO NOT contact the “compliance/authenticity guy” as he is just awful to work with and not representative of this otherwise awesome club.

I run Hoosier Speedsters on both my vintage cars and when vintage racing my full prep FProd car. They are radials and work well on the SCCA Hoosier radial slick setup. A little 205/13 Speedster handles itself fine on my 200hp Yenko Stinger with 750# rear corner weights. They can be run as is and don’t need to be shaved.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:34 pm 
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Curtis,
I've been chatting with Russ for months. the story is slightly different coming from him-- given this is the first few events, he doesn't expect me to show up with "legal" tires and become a CVAR member + license + etc for the first event. The local registrar guy is also a loooong time SCCA F&C guy who I am friends with, so they have really made the process quite easy to get started with them. nothing but good vibes so far. this is a fair contrast to what happened ~18 months ago when they first tried to get a 'less vintage but still old junk' group going, and then shortly thereafter they held a club election and most of the candidates emails were loudly beating their chests that they were not going to let any newfangled cars into the club and dilute their truly vintage group..

move forward a little while and I'm not sure what happened, but the group is now welcoming us with open arms. (it's quite possible that some people's arms are being held open for them, but they're allowing us nonetheless.)

so I'm going to go play and be a good sport about it and hope they're good sports with me.

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